Previous | Next

h1 class="firstHeading">S&box

1 Dig a ditch 4 feet wide, 26 feet long, as well as 3 feet deep.
2 Assemble all the supplies, parts, as well as equipment.
3 Cut a hole in the top of each drum the size of the toilet flange pipe outside measurement. It should be near the edge. A saber saw is best for this task.	click to enlarge (3)
4 Attach a 4" toilet flange to each hole.	click to enlarge (4)
5 Cut two holes in the top side of the lower drum, as shown in the photo, 45 degrees away from a perpendicular line drawn from the hole on top to the far side.	click to enlarge (5)
6 Cut one hole in the upper drum opposite the hole in the top, as shown in the photo.	click to enlarge (6)
7 Place the drum with one hole in the side at the end of the trench. Level the drum. The top of the drum should be at least 4 inches below grade.	click to enlarge (7)
8 Dig a hole about one foot deeper for the placement of the second drum in front of the first.	click to enlarge (8)
9 Dig the hole mentioned in step 8 a little deeper as well as fill with gravel until the 90 ell fits perfectly from the hole in the side of the top drum to the toilet flange of the lower drum.	click to enlarge (9)
10 Cut a 3 1/2" piece of 4" ABS pipe (nipple) as well as glue it into one end of the 90 ell. Cut another nipple about 2 1/2" long as well as glue it in the other end.
11 Test the fit for alignment between the two drums. The end with the short nipple should go into the upper drum. It should look like the photo in Step 9.
12 When you are sure about the fit, glue the end of the 3 1/2" nipple into the toilet flange. We will deal with sealing the connection to the upper drum later.
13 Glue a "Y" to 3 1/2 nipples as well as add a 45 degree bend to the left side of the "Y". Align the "Y" to meet the incoming waste line, as well as glue it into the toilet flange.	click to enlarge (13)
14 Cut as well as glue (2) 2 1/2" nipples to the remaining two 45 degree bends at one end only as well as insert into holes in the side of the lower drum, as shown in the photo in step 7. The face of the two 45 degree bends should be perpendicular to the trench.	See photo in Step 7
15 Pound a stake into the ground so that the top of the stake is level with the bottom of the 45 degree bend coming out of one side of the bottom drum.	click to enlarge (15)
16 Tape a 1" wide block to the end of a 4 foot level, as shown in the photo to the right.	click to enlarge (16)
17 Start the second stake a little less than 4 feet down the trench from the first.
18 Lay the end of the level without the block on the first state as well as the block on the second. Pound the stake down until the level shows level when the block is on the second stake. The second stake is now 1" lower than the first, or 1/4" per foot.	click to enlarge (18)
19 Repeat this process until you have stakes the length of the trench.
20 Place the gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is equal with the top of the stakes.	click to enlarge (20)
21 The gravel should now slope away from the drums at 1/4" to the foot.
22 Place two pieces of 10 foot 4" perforated drain pipe connected with a slip coupler (holes down). Slide one end into the 45 degree bend of the lower drum. Repeat on the other side.	click to enlarge (22)
23 Check the drain pipes with the level as well as block to see if the 1/4" grade is consistent along the length of the pipe. Adjust by adding or removing gravel under the pipe.	click to enlarge (23)
24 Seal the 45 degree bends as well as the 90 degree bend to the lower as well as upper drums, respectively. I used a two part epoxy. You could also use silicon caulk. See the photo in step 6 for finished view of epoxy.	click to enlarge (24)
25 Bury the trench to the top of the bottom drum with the remaining gravel.	click to enlarge (25)
26 Lay l as well as scape fabric over the gravel. This will prevent the soil from seeping into the gravel.
27 Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting well to the original grade.	click to enlarge (27)
28 Fill the upper drum with water.